Questions about pet rats?

I want to get a rat but i have questions. First, how often do you have to feed one? Second, is a pet store the best place to get it? Last, how often do you have to clean the cage? ThanksQuestions about pet rats?
1.) Once every day, at the least.


2.) I wouldn't recommend a small pet store, maybe somewhere like PetSmart.


3.) Once every 3 or 4 days.





No, RATS poop A LOT. You want to clean the cage often too. In a week the whole damn cage will be full!Questions about pet rats?
Get your pet rats. Getting at least two of the same gender (unless they are spayed/neutered) is STRONGLY recommended, and most good breeders/stores/rescues will not let you have one rat unless you have proof you already have one at home. It is also important you get two because rats will get very lonely and even depressed if they do not have another rat buddy to play and cuddle with. Rats are best acquired from a breeder or rescuer. They have a more intimate knowledge of the rats in their care and can help you find the ';right'; one. Always thoroughly research any rescuers/breeders before getting rats from them. This is often a better choice than buying pet store rats (which are usually from ';mills'; and little consideration is taken for their health). If you do decide to buy from a pet store, avoid rats with the following problems: red discharge around the eyes and nose, noisy breathing, open wounds, lethargy, cloudy eyes, or runny poop. The danger of getting rats from a pet store is that often mix-ups occur and the genders may be mixed. You may be only buying two rats initially, but a few weeks down the road you may get quite a surprise!


Find a veterinarian who has knowledge of and experience with rodents. It is important to do this before or right after you get your rats, so when you have an emergency you don't have to waste time flipping through the phone book looking for emergency small-animal clinics.


Buy a large cage with solid flooring, levels, and ramps. Wire flooring is painful for your rat. For every rat, there should be a minimum of 1 square foot, but 1.5 square feet or more is better.


The barspacing should be no more than a 1/2 inch (chicken wire can be used to seal gaps) and the bars themselves should be powder coated to avoid rat urine corroding the bars. Rats are excellent jumpers and climbers and should be able to execute their acrobatics in their cage without flying through the bars.


Wood chips and shavings (Pine and Cedar) are dusty and contain oils that could cause respiratory infections, among other things, in rats. The ONLY wood shavings okay for rats is aspen shavings. Use a hemp, cloth, or paper bedding. Be sure the cloth isn't frayed however as they could cause your rats harm if they snag a claw and rip it off. Fleece (absorbent, and won't fray) or towels (might fray, but more absorbent) are a good bet, but you will need to change them several times a week. Another good alternative to shavings is Carefresh, a reclaimed cellulose bedding, or recycled newspaper beddings like Yesterday's News.


Spend time with your rats. The more attention you give, the more bonded, active, healthy, and friendly your rat will be. A single rat is a lonely rat and this can cause behavioral issues. Unless your rat is aggressive, they are best not left alone. It is advisable to get the rats from the same place at the same time, so as to not have to worry about quarantining them or possible introduction problems. Rat introductions can also get a little ugly especially with territorial male rats. A good spot for introductions is a big box or a bath tub.


The staple diet of your rat should consist of lab blocks or a homemade grain mix called ';Suebee's Diet'; and dog food. The recipe can be found online.. The rest should be supplemented with fresh and frozen fruits, veggies, cooked beans, seeds etc. Avoid giving citrus juices to male rats, as a chemical in the peel (which is usually in commercial citrus juices) binds with a protein in their kidneys, and causes cancer. Fresh citrus is fine, as long as you remove any skin and pith (the white stuff) before feeding male rats. Females do not have this problem. If you must purchase commercial rat food be aware that the corn and alfalfa pellets are undigestable and small seeds will likely go uneaten. Many vets recommend Oxbow Regal Rat, Mazuri, or Harlan Teklad lab blocks.


Make food readily available. Rats will stop eating when they are full. Buying pre-made ';rat mixes'; isn't necessarily the best choice as some rats will eat only the pieces they enjoy and leave the rest. Some recommend buying ';lab blocks'; which are ';nutritionally complete'; and supplementing with fresh fruits, veggies, dry bread, yogurt. Rats may become bored eating the same thing every single meal, and can stop eating. Dog food made for Seniors (which has a lower fat content) can be a good supplement to their regular diet.


When buying rat food, ensure that it is not just seeds and nuts! These mixes contain too much protein and fat for rats. Also ensure that corn is not the number one ingredient in the mix as too much may contribute to cancer. Instead of searching for a good rat mix, you can choose to make a homemade mix such as Suebee's (see external links).


Clean their cage often! Daily ';spot-checks'; help maintain a clean cage, and at least weekly cleanings will ensure healthy rats. Harsh chemicals, like bleach, can harm their sensitive respiratory systems. Retail pet-friendly product li
Probably similar to a hamster. A rat??? That would creep me out!
I have rat my self.





You feed your rat when the dish is empty, some say every day, you don't want your rat to be fat if it's getting fed every day.





when the rat has food in don't top it up wait until the rat has polished it off then re fill it back halve way of the dish.





You clean it out once a week





But if it's warm you might have to clean it out twice in one week.





Give it fresh clean water every day though =]





I hoped this has helped you.
You should feed them every day, or whenever the food bowl is empty.





A pet store is not the best place to get rat. Pet store rats are unsocialized, and because they are primarily sold as feeders they are not well bred. Look for a breeder, or even consider adoption if you want a healthy, happy rat.





You do a complete cleaning once a week and spot clean the wet or messy bedding every day.
Feed them a little everyday (like a scoop). Doesnt matter where you get it though if you get it from petsmart or petco you would be rescuing it! (they are treated badly) clean the cage once a week! You should rad some books on rats if you didnt know all this!
1) Free feed them lab blocks (I recommend Harlad Teklad). Fresh fruits and veggies daily.


2) No. Pet store rats are unsocialized and have horribly genetics= health problems. Also, many of the stores buy from breeding mills. While it feels like you're rescuing the rat from the horrible pet store, you're only supporting the mills. I would look for a breeder (good genes, well socialized) or consider adopting (save a life!).


3) A good cage, minimum, will cost you $100. I suggest looking for used cages. The food I buy costs me about $30 and lasts 4/5 months. I get it shipped to me though. And that doesn't include fresh fruit. Toys... well, that depends on how handy you are with a sewing machine (hammocks) and how much you can resist buying toys for your rats, haha.





For any questions you have, or just to look up information, I suggest www.goosemoose.com. It is, by far, the best rat forum I've ever found.
As far as food, just leave out rat blocks and give treats daily like carrots, peanuts, fruits etc. Pet store is fine, just purchase one on the younger side. Depending on the size of the cage.. I would say every 4-8 days.
every day. i don't know.every week